All posts by Leigh Hatts

Is Keats’ poem on Pilgrims’ Way and not at St Cross?

Winchester Cathedral: Which way did Keats go?

Two hundred years ago today John Keats wrote his poem called To Autumn.

It was written on Sunday 19 September 1819 in Winchester about Winchester which for years has promoted a Keats Walk along the River Itchen from Winchester College to St Cross.

New research suggests that his walk was not to the south but along the first mile or so of the Pilgrims’ Way (waymarked St Swithun’s Way) between Hyde Abbey and Abbott’s Barton.

Here “Keats saw barns, apple orchards and stubble fields,” says Hyde 900 which is promoting a guided walk along Nuns Walk on Sunday evening.

Keats makes no mention of the Pilgrims’ Way by name although earlier he had seen other stretches by moonlight.

However, Keats does start his poem in the manner of Chaucer using the word season which appears in the prologue to The Canterbury Tales. Keats knew Southwark and its Chaucer association having lodged as a student in St Thomas Street round the corner from The Tabard Inn.

On Sunday the walk leader will be referring to Charles Ball’s 1818 guide book to Hyde. The event is part of Winchester heritage week.

To Autumn by John Keats 

Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness,
Close bosom-friend of the maturing sun;
Conspiring with him how to load and bless
With fruit the vines that round the thatch-eves run;
To bend with apples the moss’d cottage-trees,
And fill all fruit with ripeness to the core;
To swell the gourd, and plump the hazel shells
With a sweet kernel; to set budding more,
And still more, later flowers for the bees,
Until they think warm days will never cease,
For summer has o’er-brimm’d their clammy cells.

Who hath not seen thee oft amid thy store?
Sometimes whoever seeks abroad may find
Thee sitting careless on a granary floor,
Thy hair soft-lifted by the winnowing wind;
Or on a half-reap’d furrow sound asleep,
Drows’d with the fume of poppies, while thy hook
Spares the next swath and all its twined flowers:
And sometimes like a gleaner thou dost keep
Steady thy laden head across a brook;
Or by a cyder-press, with patient look,
Thou watchest the last oozings hours by hours.

Where are the songs of spring? Ay, Where are they?
Think not of them, thou hast thy music too,—
While barred clouds bloom the soft-dying day,
And touch the stubble-plains with rosy hue;
Then in a wailful choir the small gnats mourn
Among the river sallows, borne aloft
Or sinking as the light wind lives or dies;
And full-grown lambs loud bleat from hilly bourn;
Hedge-crickets sing; and now with treble soft
The red-breast whistles from a garden-croft;
And gathering swallows twitter in the skies.

William Blake and the Pilgrims’ way

William Blak’e 1810 Canterbury Tales print

The William Blake exhibition opening at Tate Britain today has a reminder of the artist’s interest in the Pilgrims’ Way.

He started thinking about Chaucer’s characters in The Canterbury Tales in about 1806. However he was peeved when his friend Thomas Stothard allegedly stole his idea by signing deal with a publisher for a pilgrims’ painting.

Blake completed his own Chaucer’s Canterbury Pilgrims painting in 1808 and issued it as a print in 1810.

Southwark’s Tabard Inn is depicted as having a gothic gateway. In the background there is the suggestion of St Dunstan-in-the-East towering above the other London city churches which would have been seen by Blake although not of course Chaucer.

The depiction of the characters can only have come from a close reading of the Tales.

Later Blake was to spend long periods at Shoreham in Kent which is on the Pilgrims’ Way out of London. He stayed with fellow artist Samuel Palmer who lived at Water House where the ancient pilgrim path passes the door.

William Blake is at Tate Britain daily until 2 February; £18 (conc £17).

Chaucer’s Canterbury Pilgrims print by William Blake at Tate Britain


The pilgrims, with Chaucer at the back, leave The Tabard Inn in Southwark’s Borough High Street (detail from Chaucer’s Canterbury Pilgrims print by William Blake at Tate Britain)

St Edith’ s Well at Kemsing

Flowers on the well last year

If passing through Kemsing in Kent between this weekend and St Edith’s Day Monday 16 September you may find flowers next to St Edith’s Well.

On Sunday afternoon 8 September there will be devotions by the well at 3:30pm followed by Vespers in the church at 4pm.

The Vespers of St Edith will premiere new settings of the Latin texts of psalms and canticles by composer Angus McPhee in memory of local artist Mary Tyler.

St Edith’s hymn and the Magnificat will be sung in English.

Edith, born and raised at Kemsing, was sister of St Edward the Martyr and Ethelred the Unready. Her sister-in-law was Queen Emma whose remains are in Winchester Cathedral.

Kemsing is just beyond Otford which is best reached on the also ancient quiet lower path starting in Otford churchyard.

The path from Otford to Kemsing used again by pilgrims

Becket 2020 at Southwark

Tour opening at Southwark Cathedral

Next year 2020 is the 850 anniversary of Archbishop Thomas Becket’s murder in Canterbury Cathedral.

St Thomas was killed in his cathedral during Christmas week 1170.

Just two weeks earlier the Archbishop had visited Southwark Cathedral, then a priory, and spent the night next door at the Bishop of Winchester’s house.

Thomas already knew Southwark well having been born over the river in Cheapside and often crossed London Bridge for the road south.

Southwark Cathedral, where many today start their Canterbury pilgrimage, will begin its Becket 2020 programme in November this year with performances of Scena Mundi Theatre Company’s production of Murder in the Cathedral by TS Eliot.

The opening night is on Monday 4 November.

TS Eliot knew Southwark Cathedral which he visited in 1957 for the opening of the Shakespeare Festival.

Booking (£10-£45) now open at Experience Tickets.

The first edition of the text published for the premiere in Canterbury Cathedral in June 1935

St Bartholomew’s Day

St Bartholomew’s Church at Otford where the PW runs along the side side

How has the weather been this month on your walk to Canterbury?

St Bartholomew’s Day is Saturday 24 August which is forty days after St Swithun’s Day.

An old saying claims that if it rains on 15 July it will rain for 40 days but if it’s fine it will be dry for forty days.

You will find a St Bartholomew’s church at Hyde Abbey as the Pilgrims’ Way leaves Winchester and at Otford in Kent where the two branches of the Pilgrims’ Way come together.

St Bartholomew is one of the Apostles and his relics are on an island in Rome’s River Tiber. An arm was for a long time at Canterbury Cathedral having been given by Queen Emma whose own remains are in one of the newly restored chests in Winchester Cathedral.

St Martha’s stamp

St Martha-on-the Hill has a pilgrim stamp.

The church, dating from 1100, is on a hill 570 feet above sea level with a view over several counties.

It’s the next objective after crossing the River Wey outside Guildford. Afterwards you head for Shere where St James’s Church has the next stamp.

St Martha-on-the-Hill is open in summer on Saturdays (11am-2pm), Sundays (11am-4pm) and Wednesdays (11am-4pm).

St Martha-on-the-Hill

Lammas at Southwark

Bread Ahead team with Sub Dean Michael Rawson

Lammas Day is on Thursday 1 August.

This is the original ‘harvest festival’ dating from Anglo-Saxon times when thanks is given for the first fruits rather than just in the autumn when all is gathered in.

“It provides us with time to pause and reflect on our connection with the agricultural world and the source of our food,” says Southwark Cathedral which will mark the occasion at lunchtime this Thursday.

“We recognise bread as a central element in our worship – a staple of both altar and table.  As we gather as a Eucharistic community and share the Lammas loaf, we give thanks to God, the giver of all good things.”

12:15pm Blessing of the first grain at Borough Market‘s Bread Ahead bakery opposite the Cathedral. 

12:30pm Procession from Bread Ahead to the Cathedral.

12:45pm Eucharist using the Lammas loaf baked by Bread Ahead. Loaves are placed in front of the altar.

St James’s Day

St James’s Church in Shere, Surrey

St James’s Day is Thursday 25 July when many pilgrims will be attempting to arrive at Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

Some of those pilgrims start out from England on the Pilgrims’ Way to go via Canterbury.

St James the Great is the patron of pilgrims and his shell is a universal pilgrim logo seen a lot along the Pilgrims’ Way.

There will be a 10am Eucharist on St James’s Day at Shere parish church which is dedicated to James and has a stamp is available.

St James’s Church at Titsey is marking the day on the following Sunday 28 July with Evensong for the Feast of St James at 6.30pm.

It’s a chance to see inside the often locked JL Pearson church with the architect’s familiar Victorian floor tiles. The church stands on the Pilgrims’ Way and is the successor to a 13th-century building of the same dedication.

 

 


St Swithun’s Day 2019

St Swithun (15th-century)

Just as the Translation of St Thomas at Canterbury earlier this month fell on a weekend so St Swithun’s Day 15 July is a Monday.

The focus is now Winchester Cathedral where Saturday 13 July is the annual Friends of Winchester Cathedral Festival.

Saturday’s Festival Evensong at 4.30pm is followed by a procession to the shrine of St Swithun.

The St Swithun’s Eve Evensong is on Sunday afternoon at 3.30pm.

This First Evensong of St Swithun will also be the occasion for the installation of the new Bishop of Southampton Deborah Selling, a suffragan of Winchester.

Bishop Deborah was consecrated bishop at St Paul’s Cathedral on St Thomas Day 4 July.

On St Swithun’s Day Monday 15 July the Cathedral Chapter will be present at the 11am Choral Eucharist. The setting is Haydn Missa Sancti Joannes de Deo and the Dean will preach.

Monday’s Festal Evensong is at 5.30pm.

Those starting their pilgrimage from Winchester to Canterbury on St Swithun’s Day may be thinking about the weather.

St Swithin’s day if thou dost rain
For forty days it will remain
St Swithin’s day if thou be fair
For forty days ’twill rain nae mair.

At the moment the forecast is sunshine on Monday and for the rest of the week but not too hot for walking.

The Winchester to Canterbury walk or ride was once also a Swithun pilgrimage for his head used to be in Canterbury having been taken there by a Bishop of Winchester who became Archbishop of Canterbury. The skull is now in Évreux Cathed­ral in Normandy although not displayed.


Southwark Evensong on radio 3

Peter Wright

Choral Evensong at Southwark Cathedral this Wednesday 10 July will be broadcast live on BBC Radio 3.

The cathedral  will be closed over lunchtime from 12.45pm to 2.30pm for rehearsals.

Those wishing to be present for the broadcast at 3.30pm should be seated by 3.10pm.

The broadcast marks the retirement of Peter Wright who has been Director of Music since 1989.