Starting shortly this month there will be an occasional diversion on the Pilgrims’ Way above Charing in Kent.
The route does not pass through the village which is downhill to the south.
Just before the turn off it will be necessary to divert right down to the main road where there is a pavement. The road curves to cross the Pilgrims’ Way a little further on.
There is a turning off the road to Charing.
The closure, which is expected to be on and off during the summer, is to enable work to take place on improving the path.
Quality Street in Merstham, which has links with the Quality Street play and bow fronted houses as on the sweet tin, is on the Pilgrims’ Way.
Immediately afterwards you cross high over a surprise motorway to St Katharine’s Church which is offering overnight sanctuary in its hall.
This is just one of several places where, thanks to the efforts of the British Pilgrimage Trust, pilgrims can enjoy basic accommodation for a donation. You only need a sleeping bag.
Another village ready with sanctuary is Boughton Lees where a 15th-century building, which a church seventy years ago, is available for a night.
Both venues have lavatory and washing facilities with food nearby.
For contact details along with news of any further sanctuary churches look at the British Pilgrimage Trust website.
But the Trust is making it clear that sanctuary should not be confused with the more luxurious champing being offered by some churches elsewhere although not yet on the Pilgrims’ Way.
A stamp is now available at The Bull on top of Shooters Hill for those carrying a pilgrim passport.
The hill is 8 miles out of London and has a spectacular view back to the city.
The Bull, a CAMRA star heritage pub with a grade II listing, dates from 1881 and is the successor to an 18th-century inn which stood 100 yards to the east as indicated by a surviving mounting block.
The pub, on the corner of Shrewsbury Lane and in the shadow of the huge water tower visible from London Bridge, has just relaunched with a redesigned hidden garden.
The Bull is open daily from 11am with food including pizzas from 4pm.
All day food will available at the new adjoining Hill Top Coffee Shop opening this Friday.
A new mile long pilgrim route known as the Romero Way links Southwark’s St George’s Cathedral to Southwark Cathedral.
Some will wish to begin their pilgrimage to Canterbury at St George’s where there is the national Oscar Romero Shrine. Relics of the saint, a 20th-century Becket, are also found in Canterbury.
ST GEORGE’S CATHEDRAL, since 1852 the mother church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Southwark which embraces Canterbury, was completed in 1848 to a design by Augustus Pugin. His was the first wedding. The planned but never added spire is reputed to be the one now above Edinburgh’s Tolbooth Kirk. Second World War bombing resulted in massive rebuilding of Pugin’s church. A window depicts Pope John-Paul II’s 1981 visit. The Óscar Romero national shrine was placed here in 2013.
A stamp can be obtained here for your pilgrim passport which is available, along with the Pilgrims’ Way guidebook, in advance from the Anglican Southwark Cathedral shop.
Leave St George’s Cathedral by the west doors. You can turn left and go directly to St George’s Circus. The official route circles the building by turning right in order to pass the house of Pugin’s builder George Myers (left) before bearing right round Archbishop’s House designed by FA Walters of Buckfast Abbey fame. Pass Romero House, the CAFOD HQ (right).
Keep ahead across St George’s Circus into Borough Road.
Go left into Milcote Street and right by the Diversity Garden along King James Street. Just after Lancaster Street crossroads there is Mathieson Court (right).
MATTIESON COURT, on the site of the lost St Alphege Church (1880-1991), is named after the last parish priest Eric Mattieson who was also National Theatre chaplain. The foundation stone survives at the end of the brick wall (right).
Walk under the railway line to go left and, almost at once, right into Webber Street. At Great Suffolk Street bear right to the crossroads and turn left up Southwark Bridge Road.
On the double bend pass the Welsh Chapel.
BOROUGH WELSH CHAPEL dates from 1872 having replaced an 1806 Congregational chapel.
At the Union Street traffic lights go right into Flat Iron Square. On the far side turn left into O’Meara Street. The Church of the Precious Blood is on the right.
PRECIOUS BLOOD CHURCH was built in 1891-2 to a design by F A Walters who was responsible for Archbishop’s House. He described the church as ‘an extremely simple style of Romanesque or Norman’. The baldacchino over the high altar is modelled on the one at San Lorenzo fuori le Mura in Rome. Since 2013 the church has been in the care of the Personal Ordinariate of Our Lady of Walsingham.
At O’Meara Street’s far end is Southwark Street. Use the crossing to the left to go right. Turn left into Redcross Way. At the T-junction go right to follow Park Street. As the street bends Southwark Cathedral’s tower can be seen ahead on the far side of Borough Market.
Walk through the Market and turn left past Bread Ahead to reach Southwark Cathedral. The main entrance is on the north (river) side.
SOUTHWARK CATHEDRAL was an Augustinian Priory when visited by Thomas Becket weeks before his death in 1170. The saint and pilgrims are depicted in windows. Shakespeare knew the building as a parish church when he buried his brother here in 1607. This has been the Anglican cathedral since 1905.
The new owners, having it seems given up on much promised public contribution to Nuns Stream and water meadows management, are themselves engaged in restoring nature.
This comes at a time when the Nuns Walk is not just the Pilgrims’ Way track out of Winchester (waymarked as St Swithun’s Way) but also the Porchester to Winchester Allan King Way.
It is now likely to see even more walkers as the latest way marking has seen Camino Ingles to Santiago disks appear. Nuns Walk is also part of the St James’s Way from Reading to Southampton.
Canterbury bound pilgrims on the Nuns Walk can see Spanish bound pilgrims coming the other way. This is interesting as some pilgrims walk on to Santiago from Canterbury.
Walkers from London will find the River Darent is running high along the valley from Dartford.
A crucial section of Franks Lane between Horton Kirby and Farningham is closed due to flooding.
Even the alternative triangular footpath diversion is also flooded.
On arriving at the bridge in Franks Lane check to see if the ‘road closed’ sign is still displayed on the far side. If so do not cross the bridge but turn right to walk up the hill past Franks Hall gates (left) to the main road.
Turn left to follow the pavement, for much of the way set back from the traffic, to the roundabout outside Farningham. Continue ahead downhill to reach the village main street by the Chequers pub.
The eco Puttenham Barn reports an increase last year in pilgrims walking from Winchester to Canterbury enjoying a night’s stay.
The discount for pilgrims arriving on foot or bicycle means that you can stay for under £20 and enjoy, a bunk, hot shower and use the communal kitchen.
The pilgrim stamp is added to passports in an appropriate green ink.
You will need a sleeping bag and due to its popularity booking is essential.
Puttenham lies between Farnham and Guildford. Food is available at the Good Intent pub which is also in the village.
A Tabard Inn Southwark stamp is now available for holders of the Pilgrims’ Way passport.
The successor to the Tabard Inn was the Old Tabard built in 1875 and still in business during the last century. It occupied a small portion of the original site being confined to the northern corner of the Talbot Yard entry off Borough High Street.
This Old Tabard building survives with its ground floor now occupied by the London Bridge Local convenience store selling sweets, snacks and even woolly hats.
In Talbot Yard, the former Tabard yard, there is a plaque recording the Tabard Inn and its association with Geoffrey Chaucer. The inn opened about 1310 when it was owned and run by Hyde Abbey near Winchester.
Passports are obtainable at the nearby Southwark Cathedral shop which can also provide a cathedral stamp as the first for the Southwark to Canterbury pilgrimage route.
The Tabard Inn stamp is obtainable in the London Bridge Local shop.
Geoffrey Chaucer opens The Canterbury Tales by having his characters gather at The Tabard:
‘It happened that, in that season, on a day In Southwark, at the Tabard, as I lay Ready to go on pilgrimage and start To Canterbury, full devout at heart, There came at nightfall to that hostelry Some nine and twenty in a company Of sundry persons who had chanced to fall In fellowship, and pilgrims were they all That toward Canterbury town would ride.’
The one character who has been identified as a real person is the Tabard’s landlord Harry Bailey who once accompanied Chaucer to Lesnes Abbey where pilgrims often spent their second night. This is probably why Chaucer chooses to put the Tabard in his story rather than the better known Bell opposite which he mentions.
To Canterbury from Winchester and London / Leigh Hatts