The Bishop of Southwark with the Bishop of Dover (left) and Bishop of London (right) in 2024 when it was announced that the Via Francigena will follow the Pilgrims’ Way to Canterbury as the first leg in England. Bishop Sarah Mullally of London will be enthroned as Archbishop of Canterbury next year.
Bishop of Southwark Christopher Chessun, who has often spoken about pilgrimage, this week returned to the theme in a letter announcing his retirement next year.
‘During my time in Southwark I have very much enjoyed leading diocesan and co-leading ecumenical pilgrimages, particularly to the Holy Land,’ writes the Bishop in his letter to the diocese dated Advent Sunday.
‘In recent years I have a very strong sense of how important the reality and metaphor of journey and pilgrimage is in the Christian Faith. It is the Way, as we seek together to understand God’s loving purposes for us, to speak well of each other, and to honour our Baptism and participation in Christ.
‘I have a heartfelt desire, God willing, to continue to serve Christ’s Church, but my own personal sense of pilgrimage is captured in Walter Raleigh’s poem, ‘The Passionate Man’s Pilgrimage’:
Give me my scallop shell of quiet, My staff of faith to walk upon, My scrip of joy, immortal diet, My bottle of salvation, My gown of glory, hope’s true gage, And thus I’ll take my pilgrimage.
‘It has been a privilege to make my pilgrimage with you over these years. You have been hearty companions. I am confident that in God’s providence there will be joy and sustenance for each and every Southwark pilgrim in the faithful years to come, the Lord himself being our helper.’
The stone unveiling by the Mayor Winchester and the Galician delegation.
A special granite Camino milestone, or mouteira, has been installed in Winchester on the line of the St James’ Way.
The location is outside St Bartholomew’s which is a surviving church within the once large Hyde Abbey on the edge of Winchester.
The St James’ Way, from Reading Abbey to Southampton, is the first leg of the Camino Inglés, once linked by a direct sea route to La Coruña on the northern Spanish coast, leading to Santiago de Compostela.
The relics of St James the Great, often depicted as a pilgrim, are in Santiago’s cathedral. But a hand, given by Henry I and claimed as belonging to St James, was held by Reading Abbey.
The new stone is where the St James Way has briefly joined the Pilgrims’ Way. For pilgrims walking eastward to Canterbury, the stone is 1km from the Pilgrims’ Way starting point at Winchester Cathedral. For Santiago pilgrims walking south it is 659 miles to Santiago.
The stone is unusual in not recording in kilometres. A delegation from the Spanish Galician Government and A Coruña Provincial Council, who gave the stone, was present for the unveiling last week.
A pilgrim passport stamped on the route across Berkshire and Hampshire counts towards receiving a certificate, or Compostela, in Compostela de Santiago.
A new stamp for pilgrims walking in either direction is available in St Bartholomew’s, open Saturday and Sunday mornings. The stamp depicts the stone. The nearby King Alfred pub also has a stamp.
Bishop David Hamid, former suffragan Bishop in Europe, blessed the stone and spoke in Spanish.
David Sinclair of the Confraternity of St James, who has worked on the development of the St James’ Way Camino Inglés, said: ‘It is a further significant step in the ongoing development of the St James’ Way Camino route.
‘The milestone marks in a magnificent way at this most apt of sites, the 100 km ‘to go’ point by foot in a pilgrim’s journey to Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. This is the point from which their Compostela is earned.
‘We are grateful for the efforts and contributions of the Galician government, A Coruña Provincial Council, Winchester City Council, St Bartholomew’s Parish Pastoral Council and the Diocese of Winchester in its placement, production, shipment and installation. For the future pilgrims that reach it, we wish them ultreia et suseia (go further, and higher).’
Before the dissolution of monasteries in 1539 pilgrims were attracted to Hyde Abbey by the relics of St Josse and the head of St Valentine. David Sinclair hopes that the addition of the St James’ Way will herald a return of pilgrimage to St Bartholomew’s church and Hyde Abbey now the resting place of King Alfred.
Bishop David Hamid and Confraternity of St James chair Sue Sergeant St Bartholomew’s rector Karen Kousseff and Winchester mayor Sudhakar AchwalA flag accompanied the Spanish visitors walking part of the route after the unveiling. Guests and parishioners gathered around the stone at the end of ceremonyGuests and parishioners hear about the history of Hyde Abbey at gatehouse opposite the stoneThe new stamp at St Bartholomew’s, Hyde Abbey
Southwark Cathedral church will be closed for sightseeing on Wednesday morning 15 October during the consecration service for the new bishop Kelly Betteridge.
She is to be a suffragan bishop in the Diocese of Winchester where her responsibilities include pastoral care churches on the Pilgrims’ Way from Winchester to Bentley.
It is appropriate that the consecration is taking place in Southwark where the Pilgrims’ Way also starts. The Southwark and Winchester routes to Canterbury merge at Otford in Kent.
Southwark Cathedral, a former priory, is the daughter cathedral of Winchester. Its diocese once embraced all of Southwark with the bishop living next to the priory. The remains of the Winchester Palace’s great hall can be seen in Clink Street.
Bishop designate Kelly says that she enjoys walking and has ‘done several distance walks’.
She takes up her new duties next month.
The early 14th-century great hall rose window of Winchester Palace in Southwark’s Clink Street (Photo: London SE1)
The Chevening Parkland Scheme embracing a wide area has resulted in an unexpected and very welcome improvement.
The footpath running east from Chevening churchyard runs directly to a lodge on a very busy road bend.
Thanks to the opening of new paths it is now possible to avoid walking along the road lacking a pavement by taking a loop using an original stretch of the ancient Pilgrims’ Way track.
The new directions after leaving Chevening are:
Stay on the way as it swings left, shortly before the lodge ahead.
Follow the path north at the side of Turvin’s farmhouse. Where the way turns to a junction bear left to continue north following a hedge (left). Ahead go up a steep slope to join the line of the ancient Pilgrims’ Way.
At once go right on the original PW to go through a farm gate. Keep forward with a panoramic view over the hedge (right). At a crosspath still keep forward. The way rises slightly before reaching a squeeze stile.
On the far side turn right to go downhill. The path passes the barns of Morants Court Farm (right) to reach the road. Cross with care to the pavement opposite and walk left.
Whilst the new route is a great and permanent improvement some may still wish to continue ahead at the lodge to visit the Eat ’N’ Mess cafe at Turvin’s Farm (open daily 8am-4pm). Beyond the gate to the main road turn left and pass the farmhouse gate (left) to follow the verge to the farmyard gate (left).
SR174 is the path from Chevening Church. The original Pilgrims’ Way is the path at the top running north-east.The path running north from the side of Turvin’s Farm with the original PW line seen ahead across the field.The original Pilgrims’ Way accessible again.The squeeze stile where one leaves the old PW to turn south towards Dunton Green.
The Dirty Habit next to the Pilgrims’ Way is due to reopen in 2026.
The pub was devastated by fire in the autumn of 2022.
The exterior restoration is nearing completion and in the New Year work will begin on the interior.
The reopening, expected late next year around the fourth anniversary of the fire, will see the inn offering accommodation as well as refreshment.
Formerly known as the King’s Head and The Pilgrims Rest Inn, the present name is a reference to the monks of Canterbury who once worked in the local vineyard.
Although the Dirty Habit site is claimed to date from Norman times, the surviving building is mainly early 17th-century.
Doggett’s Coat and Badge race was run today from opposite Hay’s Galleria in the Pool of London to Cadogan Pier in Chelsea. A number of vessels followed with former winners in their scarlet coats on board.
Sunday’s Quality Street Fair at Merstham saw large crowds on a very short stretch of the Pilgrims’ Way.
The annual event with stalls is the successor to a horse fair operating under an Edward III charter.
The Pilgrims’ Way runs down Quality Street which is named after the 1902 stage play Quality Street. This eventually gave rise to the Quality Street sweet tin.
Yesterday the coconut shy was giving Quality Street chocolates as prizes.
Many other stalls were offering refreshments.
At the end of the street a narrow passage carries pilgrims over the M25 and directly to the church on a hill.
The ancient church is open daily and warmly welcomes pilgrims with offer of a stamp and even tissues and chocolate if required.
Also available is basic accommodation in the church hall -a floor, kitchen and toilet. Booking via [email protected]
Bow fronted houses in Merstham’s Quality Street recall those depicted on the Quality Street tin
The street signThe candy floss stall outside The Forge, former home of Seymour Hicks and Ellaline Terris who starred in the Quality Street play.St Katharine’s church Merstham St Katharine’s church hall where pilgrims can sleep.The Merstham stamp
Proposed change to Whitehill Lane running left to right. The new road through the new estate is likely to be the future access to Whitehill Lane due to the planned A31 roundabout. Sun Lane can be seen running north up the side of planned industrial estate.
Soon after the beginning of the Pilgrims’ Way Stage 2 at Alresford the route follows Whitehill Lane to Bishop’s Sutton.
The lane is now temporarily closed due to the building of an industrial estate and a realignment of the road.
The one mile walk up Whitehall Lane is replaced for now by a 1.5 miles diversion:
On reaching the end of Tichbourne Down road bear left into Sun Lane. Follow this road (pavement on left) north to the railway bridge. Do not cross the bridge but go right to follow a footpath.
At the far end go right along Bishops Sutton Road (pavement on left)into Bishop’s Sutton.
There is a welcome suggestion that in 2027 the reopened Whitehill Lane should become a traffic free ‘green link’.
The good news now is that after walking the diversion you will find The Ship pub at Bishop’s Sutton reopened.
