Angel on pilgrim bench in Canterbury

The Canterbury sculpture. From the street view the wing appears as a rucksack.

Canadian sculptor Timothy Schmalz, whose work is found in Rome, Santiago de Compostela and Fatima, has donated a striking image to Canterbury.

The new artwork is outside St Thomas of Canterbury Church in Burgate.

The bronze work takes the form of a long seat with a life-size pilgrim or an angel, depending on where you are standing, sitting at one end.

It is similar, but not the same, as one commissioned by the Vatican and placed last year at the side of St Peter’s Square.

Canterbury’s will almost also certainly form a focus for pilgrims and photographs.

The church, close to the cathedral, is part of the pilgrim destination as it displays St Thomas Becket relics alongside those of St Oscar Romero.

In Santiago the sculpture is outside the Pilgrim Office but is dramatically different as there Jesus lies on the bench with just a little room left for a pilgrim to join him.

The figure is wrapped in a blanket with his identity only revealed by the wounds on his feet.

The inspiration says Timothy Schmalz is Matthew 25: ‘I was a stranger and you welcomed me. I was homeless and you gave me shelter.’

His Homeless Jesus was installed and blessed last year, two days before St James’s Day, by the Archbishop of Santiago.

Homeless Jesus is also found at Fatima.

Lesnes Abbey daffodils appearing in woods

The woods around Lesnes Abbey have London’s largest display of wild daffodils.

The familiar yellow flowers are appearing now and will reach their peak this month.

There are also crocuses near the abbey fish pond and blossom in the monks’ garden.

**Lesnes Abbey is between Shooters Hill and Dartford on the second stage out of London.

A clump of daffodils on the grass near the entrance
Crocus
Spring in the Monks’ Garden
The cloister in the Spring sunshine

St Valentine on the Pilgrims’ Way

13th-century Hyde Abbey seal depicting St Valentine (right), St Barnabas (centre) and first abbot Grimbald (left). (© Look and Learn/ Bridgeman Images)

The Pilgrims’ Way starts in Winchester and Southwark before converging at Otford.

Both starting points have a St Valentine resonance.

On the edge of Winchester the PW passes through the remains of Hyde Abbey. Here one of the treasured relics was the head of St Valentine which had been given by Canute’s Queen Emma, mother of Edward the Confessor.

The community observed a Valentine octave which meant that the celebrations continued for just over a week .

Hyde Abbey’s seal depicted St Valentine holding his head.

[The relic was lost at the Reformation when the monastery was dissolved. There may have been three Valentines so although San Anton in Madrid displays a ‘skull and bones of St Valentine’ and Santa Maria in Cosmedin in Rome has a head there is no confirmed connection with Winchester.]

This highlighting of Valentine in Winchester was long before he became associated with love or romance.

Those responsible for that connection and triggering today’s popularity are to be found in Southwark.

Southwark Cathedral ‘s most splendid tomb belongs to John Gower.

His Ballades ‘Saint Valentin l’amour et la nature’ and ‘Saint Valentin, plus qe null Emperour’, written about 1390, make him one of the first to suggest Valentine had a connection with love.

This was nine years after his friend Geoffrey Chaucer is writing in his Parliament of Foules ‘…this was on Seynt Valentyne’s day/Whan every foul cometh ther to choose his mate’.

St Valentine, patron of engaged couples and young people, joins St Christopher and St James in being patron of travellers.

A surviving doorway at Hyde Abbey
A screen at the east end of Hyde’s Abbey church site recalls the building
John Gower’s tomb in Southwark Cathedral. His head rests on his books.

Southwark’s Unity Week Evensong at St George’s Cathedral

On Sunday Southwark Cathedral’s Evensong was sung at Southwark’s St George’s Roman Catholic Cathedral to mark the end of the Week of Prayer for Christian Unity.

The service was simultaneous with a Unity Vespers at Rome’s Basilica of St Paul outside the Walls where Pope Leo presided.

At St George’s the Dean of Southwark preached and a combined choir provided the music.

Roman Catholic Vespers will be sung by the choirs at Southwark Cathedral on Sunday afternoon 21 June.

St George’s Cathedral is an additional starting point for pilgrims to Canterbury. The Roman Catholic cathedral has the Oscar Romero national shrine.

Pilgrims can follow the short Romero Way from St George’s Cathedral to Southwark Cathedral for the ancient beginning of the Pilgrims’ Way to Canterbury.

Combined choirs of Southwark Cathedral and St George’s Cathedral

Southwark: Lost Tabard murals found safe

Pilgrims setting out (left) and returning to Southwark’s Tabard Inn

Two lost mosaic panels depicting the Tabard Inn ‘are in reasonable
condition’ according to a report submitted to Southwark Council.

The Livesey Trust Annual Report 2024/25 highlights the large scenes which were removed from public display in 1967 to make way for the Bricklayers Arms flyover in Old Kent Road.

They show the pilgrims in Geoffrey Chaucer’s The Canterbury Tales gathering at The Tabard in Southwark’s Borough High Street before setting out for Canterbury and on their return feasting.

The report, by Southwark Council’s Head of Culture Eva Gomez, concedes that the bright life-size outdoor artworks have ‘one or two losses and loose pieces’.

With a proposal to remove traffic from the flyover and create a high level garden this might be the moment to bring the panels out of storage and place them back restored on the Pilgrims’ Way which runs across the Bricklayers Arms roundabout.

Pilgrims’ Way: One of most popular routes

Pilgrims’ Way guidebook

The Pilgrims’ Way from Winchester to Canterbury is the UK’s second most popular route according to the British Pilgrimage Trust.

‘For many, the appeal of pilgrimage lies not simply in the act of walking, but in walking towards the unknown in search of something meaningful,’ claims the Trust which welcomes the King’s Christmas message featuring pilgrimage.

The top route is the St James Way from Reading to Southampton which briefly shares the same path around Hyde Abbey outside Winchester.

The St James Way is the first section of the Camino Ingles which continues from La Coruna to Santiago de Compostela.

Also just announced is the number for pilgrims arriving by all routes in Santiago last year. The total, at 530,987, is more than half a million.

The Pilgrims’ Way also has a London starting point at Southwark Cathedral and although not recorded by the Trust there is an ever growing number of people setting out on this Chaucer route beginning in Southwark.

Chaucer is not known to have visited Winchester although he did go to Southampton. His business and civic duties took him up and down the Kentish road out of London.

‘Pilgrimage is an ancient practice, but its renewed appeal today reflects contemporary pressures such as the pace of modern life and constant connectivity,’ says the statement from the Trust marking the survey release.

‘Setting out on foot along routes shaped by centuries of use offers a deliberate contrast, creating space for reflection and attentiveness to landscape and history.’

The Trust adds: ‘At a time when many people feel divided from one another, pilgrimage can offer something quietly radical: common ground. By walking alongside others, sometimes alone, sometimes in silence and sometimes in conversation, people often find it easier to listen and connect.’

29 December: St Thomas Becket memorial

The first edition of the text published for the premiere in Canterbury Cathedral in June 1935

Monday 29 December is the anniversary of St Thomas Becket’s murder in Canterbury Cathedral.

At Canterbury Cathedral there will be celebrations of The Eucharist at the Altar of Swordspoint at 8am and 12.30pm.

The Roman Catholic Mass is at noon at St Thomas of Canterbury Church in nearby Burgate. The church is home to relics of Becket including a piece of finger bone, once held by Pontigny Abbey where St Thomas stayed during his years of exile, and a fragment of his vestment.

St Thomas was martyred on the fifth day of Christmas 1170 at the start of vespers so the Cathedral evensong on this day has long been a special occasion. At 5.30pm The Memorial Service for the Martyrdom of St Thomas largely takes the form of evensong with short graphic readings from TS Eliot’s Murder in the Cathedral.

The play was writtten for performance in the cathedral’s chapter house.

The service will be sung by Canterbury Chamber Choir. The anthem is by John Rutter and hymns include In our day of thanksgiving. The Bishop of Richborough will preach.

At 7.30pm there will be Solemn Vespers in the Cathedral Crypt.

The day is one of pilgrimage but more by car or public transport rather than foot. There was never a huge number of pilgrims from afar on this day due to the weather and short daylight hours.

The Translation of St Thomas on 7 July was the better attended occasion and remains so today.

Bethlehem Down: The Pilgrims’ Way carol

The blue plaque in Eynsford

The Christmas carol Bethlehem Down was written by poet Bruce Blunt in 1927 whilst between two pubs on the Pilgrims’ Way.

He was walking from The Plough in Bishop’s Sutton to The Anchor on the outskirts of Ropley in Hampshire.

Both pubs are now closed. The Plough, on the corner of Water Lane, suffered a serious fire and having been rebuilt is now a private house. The Anchor, near Ropley Watercress Line Station, is a steak house restaurant.

Within a few days Blunt had sent the words to composer Peter Warlock who lived at Eynsford on the Southwark branch of the Pilgrims’ Way. His cottage is today marked by a blue plaque.

Bruce Blunt was hoping the two might have some money for seasonal drinking, or an ‘immortal carouse’ as he called it, and so they entered their work in the annual Daily Telegraph carol competition.

They won and the carol appeared in the paper’s Christmas Eve issue.

The tune was for a congregation but in 1930 Warlock arranged a solo version. The manuscript was received by Lancaster Priory on the day he died.

Peter Warlock, born Philip Heseltine, was the father of art critic Brian Sewell.

Bruce Blunt is buried in the churchyard at Bishop’s Sutton where his carol is often sung on Christmas morning.

The Cottage, 33 High Street, Eynsford, where Peter Warlock lived.

Bethlehem Down

When He is King we will give him the King’s gifts,
Myrrh for its sweetness, and gold for a crown,
“Beautiful robes”, said the young girl to Joseph
Fair with her first-born on Bethlehem Down.

Bethlehem Down is full of the starlight
Winds for the spices, and stars for the gold,
Mary for sleep, and for lullaby music
Songs of a shepherd by Bethlehem fold.

When He is King they will clothe Him in grave-sheets,
Myrrh for embalming, and wood for a crown,
He that lies now in the white arms of Mary
Sleeping so lightly on Bethlehem Down
.

Here He has peace and a short while for dreaming,
Close-huddled oxen to keep Him from cold,
Mary for love, and for lullaby music
Songs of a shepherd by Bethlehem fold.

Jane Austen 250th birthday: 16 December

Jane Austen’s statue behind the Christmas Market stalls

Jane Austen was born 250 years ago on 16 December 1775 in the north Hampshire village of Steventon.

Her death in 1817 came in Winchester where she is buried in the cathedral.

Her statue, unveiled this year, is outside although at the moment suddenly almost lost between Christmas Market stalls.

Advent, as she celebrated her birthday year by year, was a special season but, like Christmas, much more low key than now.

Jane would have only known one carol which was While Shepherds Watched. It was probably sung to the Old Winchester psalm tune.

This ‘Christmas hymn’ had been published in 1700 having been written by poet laureate Nahum Tate. He died penniless fifteen years later and was buried in the crypt of St George the Martyr church in Southwark.

(His body is now in Surrey’s Brookwood Cemetery.)

St George the Martyr in Borough High Street is the first church on the London branch of the Pilgrims’ Way which runs through many places known to Jane Austen.

One Christmas Day, when staying with her brother at Godmersham (on PW), Jane delighted in having Christmas Day dinner at the ‘grown up time’ of 4pm.

Godmersham House, where Jane Austen spent Christmas,, seen from the Pilgrims’ Way

Bishop of Southwark and pilgrimage

The Bishop of Southwark with the Bishop of Dover (left) and Bishop of London (right) in 2024 when it was announced that the Via Francigena will follow the Pilgrims’ Way to Canterbury as the first leg in England. Bishop Sarah Mullally of London will be enthroned as Archbishop of Canterbury next year.

Bishop of Southwark Christopher Chessun, who has often spoken about pilgrimage, this week returned to the theme in a letter announcing his retirement next year.

‘During my time in Southwark I have very much enjoyed leading diocesan and co-leading ecumenical pilgrimages, particularly to the Holy Land,’ writes the Bishop in his letter to the diocese dated Advent Sunday.

‘In recent years I have a very strong sense of how important the reality and metaphor of journey and pilgrimage is in the Christian Faith. It is the Way, as we seek together to understand God’s loving purposes for us, to speak well of each other, and to honour our Baptism and participation in Christ.

‘I have a heartfelt desire, God willing, to continue to serve Christ’s Church, but my own personal sense of pilgrimage is captured in Walter Raleigh’s poem, ‘The Passionate Man’s Pilgrimage’:

Give me my scallop shell of quiet,
My staff of faith to walk upon,
My scrip of joy, immortal diet,
My bottle of salvation,
My gown of glory, hope’s true gage,
And thus I’ll take my pilgrimage.

‘It has been a privilege to make my pilgrimage with you over these years. You have been hearty companions. I am confident that in God’s providence there will be joy and sustenance for each and every Southwark pilgrim in the faithful years to come, the Lord himself being our helper.’

To Canterbury from Winchester and London / Leigh Hatts